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Karl Lagerfeld once said: “To design is to breathe, so if I can’t breathe I’m in trouble.”
Today marks the sad passing of this iconic designer who worked up until his death as Creative Director for Chanel and Fendi.
Over the years, in these incredible roles, he created dreams. With this, Lagerfeld leaves an unforgettable legacy. Here is how he truly transformed the landscape of fashion…
Karl Otto Lagerfeldt was born in pre-war Germany in the 1930s (his exact date of birth is disputed). Certainly though, it was as a young teenager that he emigrated to Paris, changing his name to the more commercial Lagerfeld. Here he began a seven-decade career which saw him gain the fond nickname ‘the King of fashion’.
His move to Paris was met with early success as Lagerfeld won the International Woolmark Prize based on a sketch of a coat that was produced for the competition by the designer Pierre Balmain. He then went on to become the design assistant for Balmain before truly establishing his success in the following decade. In 1964, Lagerfeld was appointed the first important post of his career at Chloé. In this role, he defined the ease and feel of ready-to-wear which continues to fuel the industry.
A year later, Lagerfeld became the Creative Director of Fendi – a post he held until his death. His other significant appointment however came in 1983. Now, Lagerfeld was to be contractually considered Chanel’s “designer for life.” Until this point, a decade after the death of Coco Chanel, the brand’s classic tweed bouclé jackets and dresses were increasingly seen as old-fashioned. Lagerfeld offered a new direction.
A New York Times reporter wrote of Lagerfeld’s debut that
“without disturbing the Chanel spirit, he managed to enliven the character of the clothes.”
Lagerfeld himself described the collection as a modern, “chic-sexy” approach which translated into longer and thinner proportions than Coco’s boxy suits. Throughout his tenure, he has transformed Chanel into one of the most admired luxury brands in the world whilst simultaneously increasing profits. For instance, Chanel’s sales for 2017 were up by 11%, driving operating profit of $2.69 billion. This performance is now an industry model as to how to transform an aging fashion house into an international symbol once more.
In 1984 Lagerfeld launched his own eponymous label. With these 15 collections a year, he set an unparalleled pace in luxury, testament to his inexhaustible work ethic. It was his consistent creativity and his desire to explore so many cultural reference points that meant that he was able to season upon season provide fresh and exciting collections across the board.
Equally unparalleled were his extravagant runway productions at Chanel. Each show, Lagerfeld transformed the Grand Palais in Paris into a completely new setting in which to present his most recent collection. In our Instagram-driven contemporary world this may not seem that revolutionary but, Lagerfeld has always set the bar with his vision. He created a world into which we could all escape.
Nevertheless this was not without cost, though Karl reportedly never discussed sales figures or budgets with management and instead focused on producing the consumer’s dream. Highlights include his AW17 collection which was set against the backdrop of a 115-foot-tall mechanical rocket ship that simulated blast off and the man-made beach with rippling waves for the coming SS19 season. This was truly magical as his models strolled along the rippling waves, shoes in hand. Magic is exactly what Lagerfeld managed to create each season. He has always been the genius behind the large-scale performance art now innate to the world of fashion shows.
Over Lagerfeld’s seven decade long career, the world outside of fashion become increasingly international. He embraced this universality within his many roles, stating that:
“Logos are the Esperanto of marketing, luxury, and business today.”
It was due to this thought-process that he held his shows in a diverse range of destinations. Lagerfeld’s Métiers d’Art fashion shows for Chanel, for example, have been held in destinations from Edinburgh to Shanghai and Hamburg. Likewise, the Cruise collections have aptly travelled too. These collections have been staged from Dubai to Havana, Cuba. This reflects Lagerfeld’s capacity to build a global brand, desired by individuals wherever they may be.
Lagerfeld was so immensely successful because he was an avid consumer of culture. It is said that his library in Paris rivals the very best. Understandably then, the designer never limited himself to his role as Creative Director at his three houses. Instead, he produced a constant stream of publishing, photography and film. This included directing a collection of short films for Chanel about the life of Coco, its founder. He also directed an ad campaign for Magnum ice cream bars and designed a range of products from cosmetics to hotel rooms to a BMW.
Perhaps Lagerfeld’s most revolutionary move was to collaborate with the high-street brand H&M all the way back in 2004. Previously other luxury brands, such as Halston, had lost significant credibility when attempting to access the mass market. Lagerfeld’s collection however was a huge success and paved the way for the designer collaborations that H&M provides its consumer now on a yearly basis. Lagerfeld described the one-off collaboration as “mass elitism, which has long been my dream… It’s the future of modernity.”
Lagerfeld always was forward-thinking, a visionary, continually inspiring us all with his distinct creativity. His legacy is undeniable.