NYFW SS18: The Emergence Of The Modern Woman

There were moments of denim, alongside the evening dresses, which offered hints into the everyday life that Herrera imagined for her muse woman. The show was complete and uplifting. It even catered to the internationalised community in which we inhabit, as delicate summer dresses were paired with playful fur coats. Herrera catered to every climate, understanding the new world which faced her modern woman.

A woman who utilised colour, volume and a mixture of texture to express her happiness.

Raf Simons, at the helm of Calvin Klein, once again delivered a thoughtful and thoroughly modern presentation. Titled ‘Sophomore’ however, the inspiration behind the show was humble. The theme continued even into the fresh faced models, such as Cindy Crawford’s daughter Kaia Gerber.

Unlike Carolina Herrera who exuded happiness, it was a show which centred around horror, as Simons continues his foray into discovering what it means to ‘look American.’ In essence the show was the embodiment of an oxymoron – ugly beauty. Delicate nightdresses were printed with images of car crashes, skirts and coats soiled and the symbolic cheerleader’s pompom crudely enlarged into tassel dresses and handbags.

It was perhaps not the most commercial of shows, but Simons was creating art. His vision and inspiration evident to all. He took a risk and portrayed a modern woman who is challenging and thought-provoking, as well as powerful and provocative.

There was a sense of overwhelming power dressing and athleisure wear which itself has its birth in this decade. The overriding element of the show however was the stunning colours used, from burnt oranges to delicates lilacs. These were worn in a monotonal way which again hinted to the simplicity of looks that Smilovic offered.

This was most clear in the relaxed waists and flowing hemlines of each piece – they are certainly clothes to be worn. Models wore multiple bags at time which equally confirmed the practicality of the collection for the contemporary woman.

Burch’s women were natural, free-spirited and had just a touch of cool.

When describing her collection Victoria Beckham simply said that “Delicacy can be strong.”

It is with this idea she has managed to create a truly contemporary femininity. Her clothes floated across the catwalk with a rare fluidity that captured the sense of delicacy. It was this along with the play dough tones of each piece – the mint green a standout colour of the collection.

Nevertheless Beckham’s woman did seem strong. The collection exuded a confidence which has been growing season by season as she continues to assert her status as designer royalty. The long sleeves for example a subtle designer touch to instantly modernise a piece.

This season Beckham epitomised the American modern women who emerged across all of the shows; she was effortlessly powerful.