The Silhouettes Of The Season | Paris Haute Couture Week 2017

Inevitably the style of the 50s instantly offers effortless feminine allure. But Chanel took an unusual Gothic twist on the simple a-line skirt, mixing modern aesthetics with classic style. This style was re-invented by Giambattista Valli with reams of chiffon.  He added the whimsical nature which is always present at Haute Couture week. 

At Dior the essence of Grace Kelly was combined with pure architecture. The show highlighted one tone dressing, moving from sombre greys to soft creams, whilst classic Dior shapes were mixed with contemporary design by the modern eye of Christian Dior’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri. She was clearly catering to the modern international. Monique Lhuillier took this contemporary edge by urbanising this delicate feminine look key to the era with a flat shoe and distressed locks.

The 50s were re-remembered, re-invented and re-instated into the modern day.

The 60s was certainly the era that remained its most recognisable, with the shift dresses, Chanel’s double breasted jacket and Schiaparelli’s plastic outerwear. The Schiaparelli show was evidently art inspired with bold colours and a clear nod to shapes from the 60s and 70s. It was playful and unexpected, just as a Haute Couture show should be.

There were also references to the space-mania of the era with silver mini-dresses being shown at the likes of Schiaparelli and Monique Lhuillier. Plastic ankle boots so reminiscent of the 60s mod girl finished the look – creating a distinct basis to the collections.

With the era’s quintessential shapes, the designers were able to create stunningly crafted pieces from a simple foundation.

The relaxed style of the 70s doesn’t instantly incite images of Haute Couture. And yet despite this unexpected relationship, the silhouettes of the 70s were elevated to the apex of fashion as art.

There was classic bohemian looks with ruching and a modern take on the psychedelic print. Chanel combined this Haute Couture print with a nod to the cold-shoulder trend of the summer season that is currently on the high-street, mixing an accessible point of reference into the collection.

Dior took a short detour away from the monomania of the show with this bright velvet patchwork coat. Unashamedly 70s, Maria’s playfulness with this historic brand shined through even in her Haute Couture collection. This was mirrored at Schiaparelli with  designer Bertrand Guyon’s multicoloured dress and glitter boots.

The shapes of the 70s and its whimsical nature added a nuanced edge to the art of these collections.

Rodarte stole the show with its theatrical romanticism, mixing florals, tulle and embellishment to create dream-like dresses. The essence of the 80s however echoed through, with the silhouettes and ruched chiffon giving a true ‘Pretty In Pink’ moment. Ronald Van Der Kemp furthered this by combining the strong florals so often seen in the era, creating a truly bold look.

Bold was certainly the aim with the Giambattista Valli exaggerated shoulders and Proenza Schouler power dressing moments.

The 80s were a unique era; its daring character and silhouettes were certainly clear.