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Certain crafts simply hold too much history and prestige for them to ever fade away. Like Italy has leather, England has cloth. With the rejuvenation of Northern mills slowly rising (Burberry plans to open a head office in Leeds, this year) and the everlasting influence of London’s Savile Row, the tailoring industry is starting to peak, once again. Every art needs its progressive artisans to keep it alive – the trailblazers who honour, nurture and revolutionize. Here, we introduce you to three young British tailors meticulously cutting, basting and seaming their way into the industry.
13 Savile Row
London
W1S 3PH
Who or what ignited your passion for tailoring?
Growing up in a middle-of-nowhere-type town, there were three churches, a pub and a sewing shop. If you weren’t into religion or underage drinking, it was the only thing to do. It reached a new spike when I made my first suit, aged 15, out of Dad’s charity-shop-intended cast offs.
You started interning on Savile Row at the age of 15. How did this shape you as a tailor?
It makes me hugely value and appreciate the heritage of our amazing craft. I am wholly dedicated to preserving it.
This year, you were listed in Forbes’ 30 under 30 for your contribution to the Arts. How did this make you feel?
Bashful, and very honoured!
Your business, Gormley & Gamble, was the first women’s tailors on Savile Row. What do you think is the future of women’s tailoring?
Simple, elegant, feminine essentials. We can’t compete with the speed of fast-fashion, but we can do wardrobe staples like no-one else.
Why do you think it’s essential for women to own tailored pieces in their wardrobe?
I don’t think it’s essential for all women, but the women who buy our clothes always say it makes them feel like the best, strongest, most confident version of themselves.
Your favourite Maxwell Scott handbag?
The Fabia in Black – so timeless.
39 Moorgate
London
EC2R 6AR
Describe the art of tailoring in three words.
Art, timeless and elegance.
Who or what ignited your passion for tailoring?
My passion for tailoring started at a really early age. I always looked up to my grandfather – he always dressed extremely smart whether he was at work or at home. He worked hard as a managing director in a factory. I started to realise that the way he looked was paramount to the respect his workers showed him.
In your opinion, what makes a bespoke tailored suit such a worthy investment?
The art of a great English bespoke suit comes down to 3 things. One: the quality of cloth used. I only make my suits using some of the finest cloth makers in the world, Loro Piana, Scabal & Dormeiul, to name but a few. Secondly, the fit. I make suits for men and women of all different shapes and sizes. There is an art to getting a perfect drape of cloth, mainly when cutting. Hence why our cutters have been hand-picked from Britain and Italy. Finally, the impression. A first impression is normally made within 6 seconds of meeting someone and appearance is 90% of that choice. I love hearing clients stories about the comments and first impressions they have received since wearing my bespoke suits.
Charles Henry London has workrooms in both Savile Row and Leeds. How important is it to you that you keep your business up north as well as in London?
It is extremely important to base ourselves within the key areas of the history of bespoke. Savile Row has and always will be the most famous street for bespoke garments. Leeds was one of the key manufacturing areas for textiles many years ago. But sadly due to other companies outsourcing and moving operations, this has caused the textile industry up there to diminish. We wanted to bring the tailoring influences back. With Brexit now in full swing, we hope that we will see others bringing their manufacturing back to the UK.
What type of suit do you enjoy tailoring the most?
19 Widegate Street
London
E1 7HP
Who or what ignited your passion for tailoring?
When I was fourteen, my father took me on a trip to London and as we turned onto Savile Row, I could see the iconic flags and the awnings hanging above the shop fronts. I marveled at the steady stream of well-dressed men strolling along the street.
I was fascinated and enthralled by Savile Row; a small London street that has continued to be the epicenter of bespoke clothing for nearly two hundred years.
Can you remember your first personal tailored piece?
I certainly can, it is probably the one and only ‘boring’ suit I ever made. It was a plain grey three-piece – nothing outlandish like the rest of my creations thereafter.
Why should you always go bespoke when it comes to suits?
Made-to-measure and bespoke tailoring allows customers to choose everything from the design to the fit. It allows customers to express their individuality and personality through their clothing, which is sometimes difficult to do with standard off-the-peg suiting. It also gives people that stuggle to find suits on the high street, whether be by fit or design, the chance to get something that is perfect for them. Guards 1843 is situated in the heart of Spitalfields in London.
Does the history of the area influence you as a tailor?
Absolutely – the area has seen a huge resurgence in the past 10 years; Spitalfields and into Shoreditch is now one of the main hubs of fashion in London. Guards London, our modern tailored outerwear range, takes inspiration from the streetwear scene that has continued to flourish in the area and combines it with the modern tailoring you see in Guards 1843.
What are your favourite tailoring trends for the upcoming summer season?
I’m a fan of bright shades – bright linens have always been successful during summer seasons in store, from bright purples, pinks, and reds, you’d be surprised how many people go for them. I’m also a fan of the lightweight flannel blazers with separate trousers – smart, but comfortable during the summer.
Your favourite Maxwell Scott piece?
I have traveled all around the world with the trusty Piazzale luggage case – practical, elegant and beautifully crafted.
