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If you’re a gentleman who takes pride in your sartorial choices, you’ve probably often wondered; how do Italian men manage to dress so well?
It’s called “Sprezzatura”; considered effortlessness.
Italian style is about attention to detail – even when it looks a little rough around the edges.
Like most of the Western world’s finest artistic trends, the term was coined in the Renaissance. Baldassare Castiglione describes sprezzatura in The Book of the Courtier as “a certain nonchalance, so as to conceal all art and make whatever one does or says appear to be without effort and almost without any thought about it”. With its root in the manners of courtiers, sprezzatura maintains a close correlation with gentlemanly dressing.
To properly describe the ‘rules’ for perfect sprezzatura style, we took a look at some of the biggest street style trends from Pitti Uomo 2017, the iconic men’s fashion fair held in Florence. From understated men’s fashion chic to the infamous ‘Pitti Peacocks’, here’s how to emulate these savvy gents’ style and dress like a true Italian.
A Vintage Hat
“A crumpled hat indicates that it’s part of the gentleman’s capsule wardrobe, held onto for decades and brought out every season.”
The Italians dress from head to toe, and with a touch of dishevelment being a defining feature of sprezzatura, it’s important to make sure you’re taking advantage of every accessory on offer. Hats are a must have for the Pitti Peacock. They’re vaguely flamboyant, but practical – the Florentine sun can reach the mid-twenties in June in full sunshine, so a lightweight creamy straw fedora with a simple black band is ideal (those looking to fully embrace the quirky side of Italian dressing might add a more daring detail).
Sprezzatura comes in with the appearance of the hat; it should look used, valued, and thus slightly crumpled. Looking as though you’ve gone out and purchased the hat specifically for the weekend just a few days before leaving implies a try-hard effort. Meanwhile, a crumpled hat indicates that it’s part of the gentleman’s capsule wardrobe, held onto for decades and brought out every season. Pull it down a touch on one side – straight lines do not indicate effortlessness.
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A Characterful Patina
“Full-grain leather will develop a unique and characterful patina over time, indicating a quality product that has been used over and over.”
In sprezzatura, the well-dressed Italian gentleman treats great clothes and accessories as lifelong companions. Key pieces like a quality leather bag should be treasured for years, and reflect that in a beautiful patina.
This is the word used to describe the natural aging process of full-grain leather. A great leather bag will develop a unique and characterful patina over time, indicating a quality product that has been used over and over. The leather darkens in colour to creates a beautiful sheen through exposure to oxygen and sunlight.
Natural demarcations on the leather give the bag a sense of identity that is unique to the owner. Like all sprezzatura rich pieces, its imperfections are a powerful indication of style.
For a true sprezzatura finish, clash chocolate brown leathers with chestnut tan and black, and full-grain leather with suede for a fusion of textures.
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A Suit To Fit
“You wear a great suit because you’re a gentleman, but ensure it’s imperfect to make styling seem easy.”
A gentleman is incomplete without a great suit. Or several. But the suits of sprezzatura are no off the rack easy style wins. They are carefully crafted and adapted to the body and character of the wearer. These suits are tailored, but not overly slim fit – the clothing should be part of a nonchalance, rather than distractingly constrained.
These Pitti Uomo street style subjects made purposeful unfinished touches for an effortlessly cool overall effect. A crisp double-breasted
jacket may be par for the course for Roger Moore, but one haphazard button is plenty for the studied Italian.
It’s also important to think of the materials of the suit. In the Mediterranean heat, linen and cotton are obvious choices, but they also offer a slightly wrinkled finish to match the relaxed feel of sprezzatura.
You wear a great suit because you’re a gentleman, but ensure it’s imperfect to make styling seem easy.
Finish a linen suit with a tan leather belt. Shop the Gianni:
An Italian Tie
“Ties are wider, louder and a more unique shape in sprezzatura.”
Italian style rules reject the traditional four in hand method for knotting a tie. Ties are wider, louder and a more unique shape in sprezzatura.
Instead of wrapping around the fingers once, Italian stylists often wrap the tie around twice for a more voluminous knot. They’re then pulled through as any other tie would be, but only tightened to a point that is comfortable. Nothing too tight or stuffy.
This usually makes the ‘skinny’ end longer than the wide end; a perfectly disheveled embellishment for added sprezzatura. The longer end can be tucked into the shirt for a puffy finish in a suit jacket, or left to hang loose.
Either way, it’s great to let quality materials shine.
Mock croc leather makes the perfect compliment to flamboyant accessories:
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Images from Pitti Immagine
