The Difference Between Our Leather And Vegan Leather

With leather one of the biggest trends of the coming season and the growing interest in sustainable consumerism, the most responsible way to shop leather is a growing conversation. Questions over the idea of vegan leather and other alternatives are thus arising. At Maxwell-Scott, using the finest leather is at the core of what we do. When our CEO founded the brand in 2002, it was in order to act as an antidote to the fast fashion industry by crafting pieces which would become heirlooms. This is why each of our briefcases, handbags, luggage bags and accessories is accompanied by a 25 year warranty. They are handmade by skilled artisans from full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather to last a lifetime of use. To us, they are the epitome of slow, sustainable consumerism.

Lyst reports that over the past six months, searches for vegan leather have increased by 119%. This growing interest is reflected in a more general crucial commitment to living in a more environmentally-friendly way. But, as Vogue explains vegan leather is:

Whilst there are other options then, on the whole, vegan leather cannot be considered a new fabric, but one that is currently benefiting from a rebranding to suit the lexicon of modern life. Mostly, it is made from polyurethane (which is a versatile polymer made from fossil fuels) or polyvinyl chloride. This is more commonly known as PVC, another form of plastic. These materials both pose environmental problems as they both must undergo chemical processes to transform them into wearable fabrics. In particular, they both require chemicals in order to make them sufficiently flexible to mimic leather. The process for polyurethane, for instance, involves painting liquified polyeurethane onto a fabric backing which needs a toxic solvent to render it fluid. Polyvinyl chloride meanwhile requires placticizers such as phthalates. Phthalates are also toxic and have been linked to many health problems by researchers over the years.

Importantly, both of these faux leathers are derived from fossil fuels which pose many issues when burnt, for example by releasing materials such as ash, nitrogen and carbon into the atmosphere. Moreover, it takes hundreds of years for them both to biodegrade in landfill. Part of purchasing responsibly should include consideration of the lifespan of the product and it is worrying that this type of vegan leather will remain for centuries to come. The significant proportion of vegan leather simply is plastic.

The better option then for many is to find a ‘best practice leather’ that minimises its effect on the environment. We believe in a transparent supply chain in order to ensure that our leather is of the highest quality. We source our western cowhides from the Santa Croce sull’Arno region of Tuscany – a world-renowned area for producing leathers to stand the test of time. After all, Tuscany is the epicentre of the traditional Italian leather industry.

Maxwell-Scott pieces are handcrafted from full grain, vegetable-tanned leather due to its impeccable quality, dependability and aesthetic. Full grain is the highest grade of leather and of the absolute best quality. It refers to the strongest part of the hide – that is to say the layer farthest away from the flesh. Here, the close grain pattern guarantees the longevity and durability of the leather. It is also often recognised for its attractive quality. Completely undoctored, full grain leather celebrates these natural markings of the cow. This means that the leather has character, a piece to be treasured for many more years to come.

In order to highlight the natural beauty of the full grain leather further, at Maxwell-Scott, we vegetable-tan our cowhides. Whilst vegetable-tanning “improves upon just one stage of a heavily polluting process”, it is the most environmentally-friendly form of leather tanning. It is traditional, thoughtful and conscientious production. We are proud members of the Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata Al Vegetale (The Genuine Italian Vegetable-Tanned Leather Consortium). They represent the leather heritage industry in Tuscany by protecting this process of treating leather with the most care, as antique recipes are combined with technological innovation.

There are three main ways in which the Consortium ensures that the leather is sustainable and environmentally friendly:

1. The cowhides utilised are a byproduct of the meat industry – using a product which would otherwise be wasted within this vast industry.

2. The consortium has a set of rules to which its members of around 20 tanneries must obey. The most significant of which is the rejection of the use of chemicals. This trademarked vegetable-tanned leather does not contain any toxic substances harmful to man such as azo-dyes, nickel, Pentachloropheno (PCP) or chrome VI. Instead, the leather is treated with natural tannins extracted from tree bark.

3. The consortium also ensures that many of the substances used in the tanning process are “recovered, recycled and reused” so as to fulfill the potential of every component of the process.

The far more common chrome-tanning, on the other hand, is full of toxic chemicals which then also find their way into our waterways. Vegetable-tanning is instead about time and craft. With this, our leather passes through the skilled hands of many leather artisans as the process takes up to forty days. That is forty days of craftsmanship on each individual hide. It is a long-established lengthy and environmentally-friendly process which results in a leather deep in tone with a rich, warm finish.

As our vegetable-tanned leather is not chemically-sealed it will develop a beautiful patina over time. Patina refers to the signature sheen cultivated through use and exposure. It is highly desirable and the epitome of how most importantly, it is about buying less and buying better. Associate Professor of Business Ethics and Negotiation Teaching Unit at the IESE Business School, University of Navarra, Antonino Vaccaro for example explains that his grandfather’s 25-year-old leather jacket – made in Italy of course – is the best example of environmental sustainability that he can offer his students. These are quality leather pieces which are built to be passed down from generation to generation.

Whilst,this country sends over 300,000 tonnes of clothing to landfill every year. This is a significant problem if plastics we are wear take centuries to biodegrade. Instead, at Maxwell-Scott, our Italian full grain leather marries timeless British design with Italian artistry. The patina will develop over time. With use and exposure, each handbag, briefcase, luggage bag and accessory with have ‘lived in’ nature. It is a hallmark of the highest-quality leather. Time then is so crucial to each step of a Maxwell-Scott piece. As such, the skill of our craftsmen and the quality of the leather is reflected by our 25 year warranty. We build pieces to last a lifetime, improving with age that will be treasured for many more years to come. This is how to shop sustainably.

Discover how to care for your Italian leather bag here >