Why Is Italian Leather The Most Prestigious In The World?

Central to Italian leather is its quality. Since the end of the 13th Century the leather guild in Florence has been gathering to support the industry, whilst master craftsman are now tutored in the craft in dedicated schools. In the heart of Tuscany, the very finest factories handcraft high quality leather into pieces that are built to last years of everyday use. Our 25 year warranty, for example, is an honest reflection of the skill of our craftsmen and the premium leather that we source from the Santa Croce sull’Arno region of Tuscany. This is an area which in itself is world-renowned for producing high-quality leather that stands the test of time. At Maxwell-Scott we only use the finest full grain, vegetable-tanned leather.

We use full grain leather due to its impeccable quality, dependability and aesthetic. Simply, it is the very best quality. Firstly, it is the most durable type of leather as it is made from the strongest part of the cowhide; specifically the top layer farthest away from the flesh.

In addition to this durability, the close grain pattern of full grain leather is often recognised for its attractive quality. As it is derived from the top layer of the cowhide it maintains all of the natural markings of the cow. This means that the leather always has character.

In comparison, split leather is often doctored to look as much like full grain leather as possible. Split leather, after all, is made from the remnants of the hide once the top layer is split off. It therefore lacks any natural character which is then emulated – imitation being the highest form of flattery. This process however alters the breathability of the leather. Moreover, split leather has none of the strength or longevity of wear than that of full or top grain leather.

For clarity, top grain leather is more common than either split or full grain leather. It is sourced from the top layer of blemished hides which are split and then treated. This produces a smooth flexible leather that has the tendency to stretch permanently over time. With this, it is understandable why full grain Italian leather is considered to be the very best.  

Vegetable-tanning is so vital to Italian life that a tannery was even uncovered amid the ruins of Pompeii. It was buried during the AD 79 eruption of Mount Vesuvius, later to be unearthed in the 19th Century near the town’s main southern entrance, the Stabiae Gate. Vegetable-tanning has, therefore, been a way of life for centuries in Italy – a skilled passed down through the generations. The process in general takes time, patience and skill. It uses natural extracts from parts of plants that are rich in tannin. At Maxwell-Scott, for example, we use bark extracts from chestnut, quebracho and mimosa trees to create our warm signature Classico leathers.

Importantly, the process is natural and devoid of toxic chemicals that can then enter the waterways. The Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata Al Vegetale (The Genuine Italian Vegetable-Tanned Leather Consortium) conserves the vegetable-tanning heritage and ensures that many of the substances used in the tanning process are “recovered, recycled and reused.” Associated with 20 tanneries in Tuscany, the Consortium celebrates how vegetable-tanned leather absorbs the traces of our life. It protects trademarked vegetable-tanned leather from containing any toxic substances such as azo-dyes, nickel, Pentachlorophenol (PCP) or chrome VI. In essence, it guarantees a passion for standards that is key to the traditional Italian leather industry.

The process of vegetable-tanning can take up to 40 days. It is conscientious manufacturing, rooted in tradition. The value of this time though extends to the patina that will develop with use. As the leather is not chemically sealed, it will develop this highly-desirable sheen as a manifestation of the natural ageing process. It will be completely unique to you. This is because the patina that develops is different depending on the exposure of the leather. For example, rain and sea water will leave splash marks, the natural oils from your hands will cause dark patches, and sunlight and heat will emphasises the golden tones of the leather. Patina is the hallmark of the finest vegetable-tanned full grain Italian leather.

Vegetable-tanning in particular truly is thoughtful, traditional and artisanal production. Care and attention to detail are the primary focus, combined with an abundance of patience and pride.

Alongside Italian leather’s being high quality and thoughtfully vegetable-tanned it is often crafted by Italian artisans. Clearly Italian leather craftsmanship has been prevalent in society for centuries and so, the wealth of knowledge here is invaluable. It is this which explains why the Italian leather industry is the most prestigious in the world. For the finest Italian leather pieces, skilled artisans in the heart of Tuscany handcraft the leather using traditional techniques.

At Maxwell-Scott we believe in supporting such distinct craftsmanship. Therefore each handbag, briefcase, luggage bag and accessory is handmade in our family-run factory. Domenico is the head of the family. With nearly 75 years involvement in the Italian leather industry his knowledge is incomparable. His passion for Italian leather inspires all of those around him to achieve excellence. In fact, it is his son Roberto who now runs the factory on a day to day basis. He is also supported by his two sisters, Mara and Diana, as the trio continue in their father’s legacy. Consequently family is at the heart of Maxwell-Scott, as is traditional workmanship that ensures the longevity of our pieces. Such craftsmanship aptly honours the beauty of full grain, vegetable-tanned Italian leather.