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This week it was Milan’s turn to showcase their designers and the SS18 collections. Due to the somewhat incessant nature of the September fashion weeks, here is a simple review day by day of the best shows, finer details and members of the front row that this beautiful Italian city had to offer. Not forgetting that iconic Versace finale…
Gucci
As always this was a rather eclectic show. The 1980s returned with even bigger shoulders, and perhaps brighter colours, than ever before. It was a truly multi-faceted show that combined everything possible under the Italian sun – large knits, florals, sheer pieces and animal prints, sometimes all at once. The designer Alessandro Michele with this was creating an entire Gucci lifestyle, incomparable to a mere seasonal show. Creative? Yes. Confused? Perhaps. Intrinsically Gucci? Most definitely.
Alberta Ferretti
The 1990s were woven into the fabric of this show.
A trend whose momentum does not seem to be slowing down, Alberta Ferretti married floating tulle with grungy knits and shimmering nightwear with simplicity, in order to create a reflective collection that still felt modern.
Francesco Scognamiglio
Embellishment, print and texture were the key trends which emerged at the Francesco Scognamiglio show. Each outfit was paired with white socks and ice-blue eye-shadow to create a look which had an unusual subtle overstatement to it. The pieces had been effortlessly thrown on, but were nevertheless as opulent as possible.
In The Gucci Frow
Fendi
For SS18, Fendi offered graphic stripes and a revised 1950s style. With a punk edge to add a modern finish, these silhouettes felt effortlessly contemporary despite their references. This meant that the show felt as if it was catering to a younger audience, attempting to attract this demographic to the pleasures of high fashion. There were also deeper undertones to the collection with rain coats and furs used to highlight the issues of global warming. It was a show which certainly inspired, on many different levels.
Prada
On the backdrop of comic books, there were still
heritage moments within this collection, like herring bone jackets, which grounded the show. It was about strength, detached from femininity and masculinity.
Moschino
Moschino always puts on a show not to be missed and this season was no different. Punk ballerinas transitioned into nature, escaping their chrysalis into full bloom. The bouquet of flowers dress that Gigi Hadid wore became a stand out image of MFW as a whole. As always for Moschino, it was a completely unique, slightly bizarre journey to create headlines.
The Details
Krizia
This was a collection which continued the trend of joyful dressing that has be omnipresent at all of the fashion weeks this month. Animal motifs on bright silks and knits transitioned into bright floral prints before structurally tailored monotonal outfits graced the catwalk. The pieces were voluminous and relaxed in their shape, developing a look that was easy yet accomplished.
Giorgio Armani
This was once again a beautiful offering from King
Giorgio. Surprising graphic florals were countered by night black backgrounds to modernise the floral fever. The blazer trend also continued, and then there was a stunning collection of silver tailored pieces. It was a show which felt youthful with its glow in the dark mood, but still inline with the classic Armani style.
Etro
A beautiful mix of Bohemia and tailoring, mens and womenswear blended naturally between each other. The collection showcased embellishment, clashing prints and tie scarf belts which inspired looks that were playful and a pleasure to watch.
‘Art with a big A’ – Giorgio Armani, Vogue
The Moment Of The Day
In her collection to celebrate her late brother Gianni Versace, designer Donatella finished the show with the most spectacular of supermodel finales. A truly iconic moment Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Helena Christensen and Carla Bruni all graced the catwalk in shimmering gold gowns. Simply stunning.
Bottega Veneta
A deeply Italian brand that champions craftsmanship, for the SS18 season Bottega Veneta married this tradition with contemporary design. A variety of textures graced the catwalk from silk to suede and sequins to leather tassels. With a beautiful colour palette of blasts of reds within pastels and earthy tones, this show was youthful and fun.
Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini
The key to the Philosophy SS18 collection was orientally-inspired colourful looks that felt relaxed. The pieces were worn with ease but the
highlight of the show came in the form of the finale. Here, each model wore a Victorian school girl style white smock with large pockets and plimsolls. The Phliosophy woman has buckets full of no-fuss style.
Missoni
This collection was playful, bright and unquestionably Missioni. Knitwear was given the luxe treatment and finished with a floral florish to celebrate Angela Missoni’s 20th anniversary at the helm of her eponymous line. There was nothing sombre about this collection. It was a party of a show, which felt positive, optimistic even.
The Key Beauty Trend
The modern red lip established itself as the look of the season, making an appearance in the Max Mara and Philosophy shows. Pair the statement lip with minimal make-up and de-stressed hair so that it remains a look which does not resemble the set style from the 1950s.
Dolce & Gabbana
This was a bizarre show in which there appeared very little cohesion. Instead there were a number of threads that ran throughout including playing cards, florals, modern royalty and vegetables to name a few. It was certainly a fun, consistently surprising and creative collection.
Marni
Once again embellishment, florals and oversized proportions were evident for SS18. Marni therefore
ticked many of the emerging trends for the coming season. The Marni woman is unique, elaborate, and materially and creatively rich.
Stella Jean
Finally at Stella Jean, white dresses with brightly embroidered trims began the show. A show which was full to the brim of classic holiday clothes, with the central motif of the collection a giraffe. They were clothes to wear with a spring in your step and a smile on your face.
In The Dolce & Gabbana Frow
Document day to day life with these practical yet stylish bags…
